Grand Cards: Collecting
Showing posts with label Collecting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Collecting. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

I Am Going to Change Your Life

See this?



That's a big box of cards that I just got in the mail. It's full of commons. Set filler, if you will. Since I got back into collecting I've been trying to back-fill holes in my collection from the 80's forward. My Upper Deck sets, for example, were sorely lacking, and I didn't have a single card of theirs from 1995-2002 or so. I was missing Topps cards, especially Topps traded and couldn't justify tracking them on eBay or digging through box after box at a card show or spending hours on sportslots trying to find everything I needed.

There's also some more hard-to-find needs in there. Some SP's and Inserts from 2007 and 2009 Goudey. Some SP's and inserts from Topps Heritage. More set filler from more recent sets. I actually had to stop myself from going overboard and adding cards from sets that I didn't even collect.

So why, might you ask, is this a big deal?

Because this all came from one site that I just learned about via the bastion of knowledge that is the Detroit Sports Collectors Message Board. The site is called Just Commons and it is run by prolific eBayer "Mr. Mem." The site focuses on everything that I've described and has a very broad inventory. Sure, you might not be able to find the rarest cards there, but for a team collector or set builder, this is hands down the best resource that I've found. The cards are very cheap--almost all older singles are under $.15 or $.20 (many as low as $.08) each and shipping is FREE on orders over $10. The site is extremely easy to navigate, so finding cards is a breeze. I was able to pick up over 200 cards with about the same amount of effort and time that it would take me to find 10 cards on Sportlots, browsing an inventory that feels 100x larger than COMC and didn't have to worry about shipping.

You're welcome.

*This post has in no way been endorsed by "Just Commons" and I have received no compensation from any party to write this post--it is just a damn good deal that I thought you should know about if you're trying to fill holes in your collection. My haul here will most likely lead to a series of posts this week and next that highlight the sets that I was able to complete thanks to this order, so you've got that to look forward to too.

Monday, August 9, 2010

Evaluating The National

The National just wrapped up in Baltimore and I'm now about 36 hours removed from spending the entirety of my Saturday on the convention center floor. That means two nights of sleep for reflection on the good, the bad and the intangibles of the National Sports Collectors Convention.

What's There
If you've been to the National before, you've probably had this feeling: I'm going to go to the biggest card show in the world to do two things: 1. buy some cool cards, and 2. Find Card(s) X that I haven't been able to find anywhere else, which should be easy because this is the biggest card show in the world. See: Beardy's thoughts on exactly this type of thing.

Well, I can tell you that (1) is incredibly easy to accomplish. There are cards everywhere. So many cards. Some on display, some in boxes you have to pick through, and just about everything that you've ever heard of is at some dealer's table somewhere. But herein lies the paradox of The National, it has, simultaneously, a great selection of cards and a limited selection of cards.

By this I mean, finding any specific card that you want, while not necessarily a futile effort, will take you so much time, that it almost isn't worth it at all. For example, I knocked off exactly ZERO cards from my "Top 10" wantlist. Yet I was able to get a ton of cards off of more general wantlists (set filler).

The name of the game at the show was Vintage. From the moment you walked in, the old cards where everywhere. I got halfway through the building before I found someone selling any modern stuff. Ultimately I got my modern fix in two places: one dealer who had budget GU and Auto cards (50%-90% "off"), and my favorite, the guy with the 10 for a dollar boxes from the 90s and 00s. At both places, I knew that I was benefiting from buying in quantity and that I could never come close to matching the selection and prices online once shipping was factored in. They were one stop shops. It wasn't until I got home and saw one of Chris Harris' videos that I learned the 10/$1 guy also had serial numbered cards for $0.50. I immediately regretted not spending more time there, as he probably had exactly the type of cards that I was looking for. Still, when you end up with these for thirty cents, and 47 others to go with them...







...Things are ok, indeed.

But back to the Vintage. The problem that I have with vintage is that I don't know what fair value is (I don't look for Vintage singles on eBay), and the ranges for cards seemed ridiculous. Towards the end of my day I focused in on two dealers--one with a 25 card pre-1976 deal, and the other who had his vintage cards in binders--I bought a smattering of cards from the late 50s through the early 70s for between 40% and 60% off...

Pricing

Which is actually something I had to ask about. 40% to 60% off what? Why, Beckett value of course. In the course of my everyday life, I pay exactly no attention to beckett pricing. I don't look at price guides and I don't have an online subscription. I gauge everything on where the card has sold on eBay before, or, if there are no previous sales, where comparable cards have sold, and then I marry that with my thought of how much I would be willing to pay for the card. It is a good system, and it works. But the book prices, I don't know anything about that. It wasn't until I realized that I could get some '59s that looked pretty nice for $2 a pop, or some 60s commons--also in better shape than anything I had in my collection--for $1.50 that I saw the good deal.







As for the big name vintage? Everything felt overpriced to me. Again, I don't know vintage pricing, when I'm seeing Al Kaline rookies running between $200 and $600, then it is not to be this weekend.

That actually illustrates a dichotomy that I noticed throughout the day. There are two pricing options at the National. Really cheap, or really expensive. There isn't a whole lot in between. That's not to say that prices were unreasonable, but rather that things that you would have to pay a pretty penny for if they showed up on eBay were astronomically priced. Things that you'd usually be able to get relatively cheap--$1-5 inserts or GU on eBay--could be had for very little. Score.

The Value
This is the tricky part. Was going to the National worth my while? The easy answer is yes--I got a bunch of great cards and would go back if it came to Baltimore again. But was it really? Let's break it down.

One Day Ticket: $17.50
That's the out of pocket price for a ticket bought in advance, plus convenience charge. It offers one day of admission. It paid for itself immediately:



That's right. The moment I walked in the front door, Dmitri Young was in front of me showing off his collection of PSA 10 Rookie Cards. The collection was truly impressive and people were fawning all over the cards blah blah blah. Whatever. That was Dmitri Young aka the only bright spot on the Detroit Tigers from 2002-2005. Sure, I asked him about his cards ("When did you start putting it together?" "Which one is your favorite") but mostly I chatted with him about his Tigers days, including the Opening Day when he hit 3 home runs and is still one of the best baseball memories that I have. "That day still seems like a dream to me." Me too Dmitri, me too. He pulled his PSA10 Al Kaline rookie out of the case to let me look at, because I was a Tigers fan, talked about his time on the Tigers for a few more seconds and then he handed me an autographed poster and I wished him luck on the rest of the show.

Consider the price of admission paid for, thank you very much.

The Time Value of Money
You economists know what I'm talking about. I was at the show from 11-5 give or take, with no breaks. That's six hours on the floor of the show looking for cards. A normal person would think nothing of it, but from the moment I got home my twisted mind was thinking: "Opportunity Cost."

I wasn't going to be working--it was a Saturday and I had had a long week--so no lost wages there. I could have been spending time with my wife (which has a high value) but also probably running errands and cleaning up the house (a low value). Most likely, I would have been relaxing, and perhaps, I don't know, surfing the internet for cards to buy. Bingo. So that's the big question: was my six hours better spent at the National than it would have been at home, looking for cards online?

I say yes.

1. My neck and back paid the price for 6 hours of digging through card boxes, but my eyes would have quit me for doing the same on a computer. edge: Push

2. I had trouble finding specific cards that I knew I wanted, and was particularly disappointed to find that all of the 2010 A&G minis had been picked through like mad, making a Tigers team set impossible to make. The same goes for other non-vintage sets that I wanted to fill out (Heritage, Topps Gold). edge: Internet

3. I ended up with plenty of cards that I would not have searched for, or found, online for very little money. edge: National

4. I was able to fill tons of vintage holes more easily and cheaply than I would have been able to do online. edge: National

5. I briefly met Sooz and Marie from A Cardboard Problem, instead of twittering with them and others online. edge: Internet. Zing! Just kidding ladies. edge: National

6. No shipping costs, no shipping costs, no shipping costs. Even for modern cards, I was willing to inflate what I would pay by $1-2 in order to compensate for not having to pay for shipping, which usually averages $3 on eBay. This made some bargains appear even better, and made other purchases palatable. edge: National

7. Oh the things you will see. There was so much unbelievably cool stuff there--most of which I will never be able to afford--that had a certain museum quality to it. I mean honestly, some of these dealers can't expect to be able to sell their $50,000 cards. They're just showing off and everybody knows it, which is great for us window shoppers. An added bonus of a show for sure edge: National

In all, I think the show wins pretty easily. I can't continue to help but feel as though I was missing out on some sort of treasure trove of recent cards that I needed--my really cheap refractors and Topps Golds and modern inserts and A&G minis etc.--I'm sure they were there or, at least scattered throughout a number of dealers. Even so, it is more of an argument for going back a second day than for not going at all. In fact, I'd say you need at least two hours just to scout the place out.

Over the next few days I'll show off some of what I picked up, including one of the best oddball pieces you'll see. If you're contemplating going to The National in the future, may my thoughts help guide your way. At a minimum, if you're a day trip and GA Ticket away there is no reason not to go.

Monday, December 14, 2009

Apocalypse Now: The Collection

Somewhere over the course of 3 hours, 45 minutes and 16 seconds (!) of mental solitude, I made a decision about what is to become of my Curtis Granderson collection.

I adapted this quote back when the Tigers were in turmoil and needed to come together as a team. Now it is fans like me that aren't quite sure what to do, so allow me to re-quote a part of this again:
No man is more important than the team. No coach is more important than the team. The Team, The Team, The Team. And if we think that way, all of us, everything that you do, you take into consideration what effect does it have on my Team.


Allow me to harken back to this blogs very first post, "Grand Cards: A History"
My story could probably be repeated by millions of people across the country--I am a baseball nut who collected everything as a kid, but just grew out of it as I got older. I had new interests, the Tigers were mired in a decade of obsolescence, none of my friends collected etc. Then, after the 2006 season, I thought that it would be fun to buy a Tigers team set to commemorate the season. I was hooked. I needed to have the 2007 set too--it acknowledged some of last year's success! I should probably get 2005, because those young players really set the table. Plus, I already had the 1984 set from when I was younger--I needed to be prepared for another championship. Before I knew it I was back in the thick of things.

With the "Who's Your Tiger" campaign in full swing prior to the 2006 season, I became a Granderson devotee too and in the last year or so have decided to add a player collection to my overall Tigers sets. With that, the idea of Grand Cards (it sounds so much better than Grandy Cards doesn't it? And so much more flexibility!) was born and we are off and running.


More flexibility indeed. In my heart of hearts, I am a team collector. I collect the Detroit Tigers. In fact, I have selectively chosen to pursue team sets from releases that I like, happily accept Tigers cards from other sets and satiated my interest in collecting even more sets by just pursuing the Granderson cards from those releases. This blog has always shared space between highlighting my Tigers cards and commenting on the team in general, and chronicling my Granderson collection--something that, admittedly, has received less space on this blog over the last few months than it did at the start.

Allow me to provide you with one more illustrative example of what I'm trying to say. Thanks to a regrettable absence of web savvy, I can't figure out how to embed this video and have it start at a specific point. Lucky for you, it is a great episode, so enjoy. Or, you can skip to my point, which runs from -13.13 to -12.37.


Right now my Granderson collection is split in two: A binder for the regular cards and a box for the relics and autographs all in top loaders. They are, in essence, buried treasure. This Simpsons clip came to me, as they often do, sadly, when I'm looking to make sense of some real world event, and I realized that I knew the answer all along.

What if, instead of burying the treasure, I use it to buy things. You know, things I like.

Meaning, why don't I take this opportunity to focus my collection into cards that I want. I have been picking up any old Granderson card for my collection, and although I've become a bit more selective recently, there are hundreds and hundreds of cards that I want for my larger Tigers collections that have gone ignored.

It just so happens, also, that Granderson is now on the Yankees. I'm already quite familiar with what that does to the value of a player's items, something that Sooz first talked about back last January. The problem with Granderson going to the Yankees is that any attempt to continue collecting his cards will either be an effort in futility, or will be so expensive that I won't be able to pursue it to my satisfaction. I initially thought that I could pursue a Thorzul-collecting-CC type move, and go after Granderson's cards as a Tiger, but even that will probably be too expensive and seems like it will feel grossly unsatisfactory for some reason that I can't put my finger on.

Of course, this whole problem has a flip side--I may have just hit the jackpot, so to speak. Granderson's cards are likely to go up in value substantially, which will allow me to sell the cards that I've accumulated and use the money to buy cards that fit my overall collecting goals. I forgive you if you just gasped, or perhaps feel betrayed by someone who has been a Granderson devotee since the beginning. But sadly, this makes too much sense for me not to do. Part of me wishes that I have the resolve of The Hamiltonian, or Mario's Jose Canseco collection or the Jeremy Bonderman guy, which was actually my original inspiration for starting my Granderson collection, but I'm a company man and I have an opportunity to not only profit from the collection that I loved piecing together, but to use that money to enrich my life as a collector even more.

So what does this mean for this blog, and, by extension those of you who have spent your precious time reading what I have to say?

Very little.

The name of the blog will remain the same (I knew the flexibility would come in handy!). I will likely figure out a new logo, and already have an idea that I'm going to play with--not like the logo was an integral piece of the site, so no big deal there. It will be more Tiger-centric, obviously, but if you look back over the year's posts, there has always been more Tigers related stuff than Granderson-specific stuff anyway.

Most importantly, there will probably be MORE Granderson card related content than there has been up to this point.

That's right. I love Granderson as a player and for what he means to the game. I fleshed it all out when I started this blog a time when I actually lamented that all of my previous Tiger favorites were short lived Tigers as well.
Why Granderson? All of my previous favorites were based on some experience or some memory--all wonderful, valid reasons to love a player. But Granderson is different. Sure, I made him “my Tiger” at the start of 2006 during the “Who’s Your Tiger” campaign, but there is more than that. Unlike any other past favorite, he is the player that most kids think they can be. Fast, but not the fastest. Strong, but not the strongest. You hustle and practice and try hard. A leader on and off the field, a team player, a nice guy, articulate, well educated. He signs autographs at games, he writes things on his hat, he engages his teammates during rehab assignments. He has a foundation. Curtis Granderson is a genuinely good person, the type that would make a mother proud, and he is a tremendous baseball player. Add all of those things together and you get a future face of the franchise, someone who Michiganders can look up to for a generation.


I still have fond feelings for Lou, and Milt and Fryman and well, Granderson, and that is not going to change. While I won't be following the day to day news of Granderson's career, I would like to combine my newfound enjoyment of creating card galleries with the "Ultimate Checklist" posts that were the original centerpiece of this blog. I plan on digitally chronicling every Curtis Granderson card out there. From a reader point of view, this will appear as more Granderson content than ever before, the only difference is that I won't actually be collecting his cards any more. I think that this will end up as being the best of both worlds--I get the enjoyment of following Granderson's career via baseball cards, but with the freedom to pursue collecting the cards that I care about most.

And, it's not like I'll be selling all of my Granderson cards. I'll probably sell something like this:


But keeping something like this:


Sell:


Keep:


I'll have to go through on a case by case basis, but anything that I can incorporate into another collection, or would just prefer to hold onto, for that matter, will stay, as a remembrance of things past.

So that's it. That's the plan. It is sad that it had to come to this, but I'm happy with the direction that I've decided to take things. The more things change, the more they stay the same, I guess--and as this blog is concerned, I really enjoy blogging, collecting, talking about the Tigers and blogging about collecting the Tigers too much to stop.

Postscript I'm sorry that was so long. To preempt your question--it does not matter to me that Granderson was traded to the Yankees. It is possible that I would have continued my collection had he gone to a franchise that I was neutral towards, or even had positive feelings about (he sure would have looked nice as a Cub, no?), but I'm not sure that I would have. I'm a Tigers fan, first and foremost. I continued to root for and follow Travis Fryman for the remainer of his career as an Indian, and still pull for him today as he pursues his managing career. I will feel the same way about Granderson to do well. I want to see him succeed, play well and become a player of high repute nationally--something that he'll have ample opportunity to do in New York. And yes, if he has the chance to win a World Series and is facing a team that I have no affiliation with or feelings towards, I hope he wins. Even as a Yankee.

Saturday, May 23, 2009

Topps Series 2 Dilemma

I go through this with each of Topps' major releases, and I have always chosen a different outcome. This is the first time that I will chronicle my collecting from start to finish.

Topps Series 2 is out. There are a plethora of Tigers. I am conflicted, as usual, about buying a box, culling as many Tigers from there as I can, trading to fill some holes and hitting eBay for the rest. In the past I've found that I've been happier with my Jumbo Box purchases, although I actually enjoy buying Hobby more, because I get to open more packs. I could also eschew that entirely and buy blasters. Let's say that I'm going blaster-free for this set. That leaves me with three options, Hobby Box, Jumbo Box and eBay--somehow, I'll collect the Tigers.

Here's what I'm thinking: A Hobby Box can be had for around $60. A Jumbo costs about $125. There are internet costs plus shipping. My local (Baltimore) hobby shop has them too, but based on the past, I'm guessing that Hobby will be more like $75 and HTA (which isn't usually this expensive--I paid $90 last year, I think) is more.

This year, I just can't justify the purchase of the box. I think part of it is that there are so many Tigers that one box just isn't going to cut it. So, I'm going to do this:

The $65 that would have gone to a hobby box will go directly towards purchasing cards from the team set instead. I will track each purchase, including shipping costs and see how far the price of one Hobby box gets me. If I fall short, we'll see if I can get everything that I need for less than the price of a Jumbo box.

I will track these cards as they come in and we can see how this little experiment will go. I'm really not sure what to expect, to be honest.

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Time to Buy

I'd like to piggyback on a few excellent posts that Gellman has put up recently. In them he has advocated smart and tasteful spending to really help your collection grow while cutting out the fluff. This is a theory that I strongly subscribe to and I couldn't have said it better myself. I know that we all go through "cleaning" phases and focusing our collections (I know I did), and this is a perfect time to do so with yours.

However, an excellent article in the New York Times today makes another point that is not being appropriately recognized. Not everybody is hurting for cash right now. In fact, many people are in the same financial position that they were in last year or the year before. For those of you who have a little extra cash, this is a great time to pick up a few things that you might need. While the article advocates spending discretely and privately, with suggestions like in-home renovations and the like, I would say that adding a few key cards to your collection fits that definition to a T. With Demand languishing, prices are down and you can probably find a few good bargains out there for cards that you'd like to own.

I'm hardly advocating reckless spending and I realize that not everybody is in the position to do this, but if there was ever a time when your country needed you to collect baseball cards, this would be it. So treat yourself to a couple nice cards for your collection--maybe just wait until this whole economy thing turns around to blog about it.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

The Value of Cards (Part V)

There were a lot of things that I wanted to have done before today. The 2008 Ultimate Checklists were supposed to be done, complete with a “best of 2008” summary post. Value of Cards Part V was supposed to be posted and subsequently ignored by the majority of readers. Instead 2009 Topps and Upper Deck are “live”, to use the parlance of our times, and I am woefully behind schedule.

Perhaps it’s a blessing in disguise. In this, the final episode of “the Value of Cards” series, I wanted to explore how we can make smart buying decisions in these tough economic times. Hopefully, I can piggyback on the enthusiasm surrounding the first releases of the year to gather some information that will assist in that exploration. In a welcome break from previous posts, I’ll try to keep this one short and sweet—especially since I’m about 90% sure that I made SIGNIFICANT mathematical errors in the previous post that may invalidate all of the results, although the conclusions still make sense on a conceptual level.

There is no hard an fast formula that a collector can use to make solid buying decisions, in part because every collector is different, in part because the “value” of cards is market driven and in part because there is an intangible benefit that some people get from winning auctions, opening packs, busting boxes etc. When taking those out of play though, the same questions tends to hit all collectors.

What product do I buy? How much do I buy? Where do I buy it? Let’s take a regular Topps release as an example.
Using information from Part IV we can create composite “insert odds”-- in other words, the odds of pulling any of the inserts in a given pack. .200+.167+.167+.111+.111+.083+.055=.894=89.4% chance of pulling an insert in our baseline pack. We already know that the odds of pulling a Gold card are 1:9 packs. Let’s assume that a base card is worth $.10, a given insert is worth $1 and a Gold card is worth $2. That gives us expected values:

E(Baseline) =12(.1)+.894(1)+.111(2)= $2.316 (Hobby/HTA Baseline is $2.116 because of two fewer base cards).

Based on this information/assumption alone, we can determine that buyers are getting roughly 30 cents more value out of a pack than what they are paying for it. That is great news. Now, let’s add in the “pack hits” that really make the difference between Retail, Hobby and HTA.

E(Retail)=Baseline+Odds of Relic(Relic Value)+Odds of Auto(Auto Value)
E(Hobby)=Baseline+1/36(Relic Value OR Auto Value)
E(HTA)=Baseline+1/10(Relic Value)+1/10(Auto Value)*
*I’m assuming that the guaranteed auto and relic WILL NOT come in the same pack.

Because the odds of getting a specific auto or relic card do not change across Retail/Hobby/HTA, we’re going to leave that aside. Instead, let’s arbitrarily assign values for Relics and Autographs. I suggest:
Relic=$5
Auto=$10

Also, I will only be using odds for the “Highlights” Relics and Autos, and the “Commemorative Patch” relics, as it is tedious and unnecessary to calculate the extremely remote odds “big hits” for this product.
E(Retail)=$2.316+.00052(5)+.00049(10)=$2.324 ($.193/card)
E(Hobby)*=$2.116+.0277(1.06)(5)+.0277(10)=$2.54 ($.254/card)
E(HTA)=2.116(5)+.1(5)+.1(10)=$12.08/5=$2.42 ($.262/card)
*The 1.06 in the “Relic” portion of the equation relays the relative odds of a box holding a relic instead of an auto.

Whew!

So what does this all tell us? As the value of relics and autos rises, so does the Expected Value of Hobby/HTA packs. If the value of Relics rise relative to the value of Autos, Hobby pack value increases relative to HTA packs. The opposite holds true if the value of Autos rise relative to Relics.

What does this all mean for collectors? Remember, that based on the SRP of packs, buyers pay $.16 per card for Retail, $.19 for Hobby and $.22 for HTA. With our expected values above that, we learn that buyers are getting $.03 more value per card from Retail, $.065 more value per card from Hobby and $.042 more value per card from HTA.

Woah! The Hobby pack is actually the best bet for collectors that are entirely value driven, provided that the average Auto is only worth twice the average relic. If the autographs were more prestigious, that would change the valuation in Jumbo’s favor.
Certianly, there are benefits to purchasing each type of pack: Retail is the lowest cost per pack, HTA has the best chance of pulling an Auto or Relic, but Hobby is actually the best bang for your buck, provided you can get a Hobby pack for the same price as a retail pack (which SRP indicates you can).

Certainly, circumstances will vary based on individual collectors preferences—an HTA gives the best chance for a complete set due to fewer collation variations, retail offers special inserts that may appeal to a team/player collector etc. Depending on how you collect, there are smart decisions and less-smart decisions. In my personal experience, for example, I found that I get what I need (Tigers set) whether I buy Retail, HTA or Hobby. However, both HTA and Hobby fill my sets but leave me with TONS of cards I don’t care about. I can only peddle the relic/auto sometimes and I spend way more than I will in retail. However, retail does not complete my set and I need to devote time and energy to making trades, and shipping cards. That is the tradeoff.

So before you order that Jumbo box or head to Target for that blaster, think about what you really need for your collection. As appealing as a guaranteed Auto or Relic is, what are the odds that you’ll pull a card you need, or a card you can flip as opposed to a Nyjer Morgan Auto? Assess your needs and spend wisely so that you can build your collection more cheaply and efficiently.

I know that this post may seem somewhat anticlimactic, given the buildup, and for that I apologize. I was basically testing theories on the fly, and rolling with the punches. Still, I still whole-heartedly believe that we, as bloggers, can save the world. Well, the collecting world at least.

How?

When you buy a pack or box of ANYTHING, post all of the information that comes with it. Price, odds, players in Group A, B etc. After you post it (or if you can’t post it) send it to me in an email. Don’t want to email it? Send me the wrapper.
This industry has suffered from a major lack of transparency, and too few people pay attention to the printed odds on packs. This information is there for a reason, and can actually be used to help collectors of all types decide whether to buy cards individually, by the pack or by the box. As I get more and more data from the collecting world, I will tweak my equations and hone my math skills to be able to create meaningful valuations of what products are worth your hard earned dollar.

I expect that this will be most valuable for mid- and high-end packs, where there are fewer cards per pack and a higher ratio of hits. With this information, we can decide how many packs to open, boxes to break or cards to purchase individually online. This will, of course, be a work in progress, but if you do your part (send me the info) I’ll do mine (make sense of it). So let’s get moving and start sending me those odds!

Friday, January 30, 2009

A Sob Story or, A Turning Point

Yesterday, Sooz over at A Cardboard Problem posed an interesting question, which was rooted in an analysis of how a player’s cards appreciate dramatically once he joins the New York Yankees. She concluded her post with,
When it comes to favorite players do you want to see your player end up in a Yankees uniform?
I thought it best to include a short answer and a long answer/explanation.

No.

That was easy. But for that definitive “no” to really make sense, I’ll need to give you some background, and that is where the Sob Story comes in.

In the summer of 2005 I was a college student managing my own house painting business. Although I worked all over the state, a buddy of mine and I spent a good piece of the summer in the suburbs just east of Detroit painting a few different homes. It so happens that Detroit hosted the All Star game and its accompanying festivities in 2005, and as luck would have it, I had tickets.

On the evening of the Home Run Derby, we packed up a little early and my friend dropped me off at the ballpark just after the gates opened. My tickets were about 10 rows behind the first base dugout, but, seeing as how I was there so early, I thought that I’d go into right field and catch some batting practice. Batting Practice was fantastic. There were some solid lefties smashing balls our way, Ichiro dazzled the crowd with an incredible show of power and two people immediately in front of me and one guy behind me caught BP Home Runs. At the end of batting practice many people left to go to their seats, including the guy in front of me who caught one of the BP Balls. As I stood there with an hour to go before the start of the derby I thought to myself, I’m just going to stay here and try to catch a ball until somebody kicks me out. Well...
(Go ahead. Click on Mark Teixeira's highlights--I couldn't figure out how to embed the video directly.)

Yep, that’s me, catching Mark Teixeira’s first Home Run (nice grab, huh?).
I had tickets to the All Star Game the next day as well. I spent the entire BP and pre-game session trying to get Teixeira to sign the ball. Cal Ripken signed for 10 minutes in front of me, but I wouldn’t let him sign it. Joe Morgan did the same. Ichiro spent 30 minutes down the left field line and received a standing ovation from the fans, but I didn’t want to leave my post behind the AL Dugout. Alas, the time came for us to take our seats and I was left with an unsigned derby ball.

Flash forward 1 year:
The Rangers head to Detroit for a four-game stint and I’ve got tickets to game one, but am leaving town for the rest of the weekend. My future-wife, future sister-in-law and I get to the game about 90 minutes early and I immediately rush to the visiting dugout. For the next hour or so, I embarrassingly yell “Mark Teixeira, Mark Teixeira!” occasionally followed by a “Icaughtyourhomerunderbyballlastyearwillyousignit”? As quickly as I could. Of course, the time came to return to our seats. I was left autograph-less again. But I didn’t give up. I snuck back up behind the dugout during the national anthem and immediately after, I gave it one last shot. “Mark Teixeira!”

Success! I tossed him my ball and pen and he signed it for me, and another for a young fan that wisely followed me up there. That ball was the crowning achievement of my entire life as a sports fan. It was the only ball I’ve ever caught at a game, and it’s the only item that I’ve ever had signed at a game by someone who wasn’t named Felipe Lira or Sterling Hitchcock. Not having a digital camera at the time, I took a picture of my newly hancock-ed ball with my phone and sent it on to my vacationing family.


Flash forward 3-4 months or so:
My college house, with 6 other housemates had a habit of throwing parties for our birthdays. They were large parties. One (mine) on the weekend of the Michigan-Ohio State “game of the century” in 2006 ended in minor legal ramifications for us “contributing to a loud party.” They were big. My room was in the attic. The door looked like a door to a closet. Up there, on my desk, proudly stood my signed ball. This particular mid-september party went until the early hours of the morning. I actually packed it in around 1am because I had a 15k race that I was running in the next morning.
I woke up bright and early to make the drive to the 15k. Foggy-eyed, nauseas and with headache in full force I walked over to my dresser. There is was, the broken plastic case that formerly held my Mark Teixeria signed ball. Still in place? Computer, Laptop Computer, Cell Phone, Wallet, Keys, iPod. What?!?!

I woke up my future-wife.
“Somebody stole my Mark Teixeria ball.”
“What?”
“Somebody stole my ball. I have to go. Its gone."

As I made the 30 minute drive north, I carefully crafted scenarios in which I would commit murther most foul, using a baseball bat in a fit of poetic justice. I was certain that I would find and kill whoever did this. Suffice to say, I proceeded to run my race at a sub-7:45 pace, which was very fast for me at the time.

30 minute drive home, now crafting my defense of temporary insanity. Of course that would never fly, given that it was all pre-meditated, but nobody would ever know. A police report was filed. The plastic case was dusted for fingerprints. I scoured eBay every single day for 4 months. I put 250 brightly colored flyers all over campus offering a $100 reward, no questions asked.

Nothing.

I felt that there was a void in my soul that could never be filled. I bought an autographed football helmet. It helped a little bit. I got kick-started back into collecting. A little more help. I couldn’t handle buying a regular Teixeira ball, it just wasn’t the same. I needed that uniqueness, or for it to be signed in person again. I my story needed a happy ending, not a cop-out. Finally, I found an unsigned 2005 Home Run Derby ball on eBay. I gave a sigh of relief when I opened the box. It now resides in a plastic case on my desk.

This incident single handedly re-ignited my collecting career and prompted my to start a small collection of autographed baseballs as well. Yet that ball still sits on my desk, unmarked.

I had crossed my fingers during this offseason that Teixeira would sign with the Orioles. He would be back in Baltimore. There would be chances to get him to sign at games. At the very least, there would be signings. But no, he signed with the Yankees. I can’t imagine what his signing fees will be now. I can’t fathom how difficult it will be to get him to sign at games, where Yankees fans appear as if from thin air. I have resigned myself to the fact that this ball will remain empty until the end of days. The void, a mere fraction of its former size, remains.

And this, to answer Sooz’s question, is why I never wish for my favorite players to don the pinstripes. Sure, their cards and signatures become more valuable but you lose so much more. You lose the feeling that only you and a handful of people truly appreciate the player’s greatness. More importantly, you lose access. The Yankees are too big and you, the fan, too small. Once the player is a Yankee he exists only on Sportscenter and baseball cards. Cards and memorabilia are harder to get, printed shorter, more expensive. Autographs are a pipe dream, eye contact fleeting, appearances either packed or non-existent. Voids become impossible to fill.

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Mail Day!

A sheet of ice covering Baltimore has delayed the start of work for an hour, so I figured I'd fit in a quick post about some of the packages that came across my desk in the last couple days. I'll cover two here, but there are more to come!

Brian at 30-year old Cardboard sent me an unsolicited email last week asking for my address so that he could send me a package. I was happy to oblige and was handsomely rewarded! A pack of assorted Tigers, ranging from the late 80s all the way through the 2008 Topps set greeted me when I opened it up. Some highlights:
From Grand Cards
I don't have a lot of those late 80s Score or Donruss so they will fill out my collection nicely! Of course, the highlight of the whole package falls into this category.
From Grand Cards
I'm not going to get into a long diatribe about people being in the Hall of Fame, but I will say this: Tram should be getting more serious consideration that 17-18%. That is a joke--get with it people.

Thank you Brian for your extreme generosity! It was a very friendly "welcome to the blog-neighborhood!"

My second package came from StevieBurks32 over at the Detroit Sports Collectors forum. Steve was the beneficiary of my extra Topps Tigers Bonus cards. In exchange for those beauties, he obliterated my 1980's Topps Wants. He sent 46 cards off my wantlist--including 23 from the 1985 set that I needed. He also gave me 8 Gold Foil versions of 2008 Topps cards that I needed. I wasn't a big proponent of collecting those, but I kept getting them so I thought, why not? Here are the highlights from Steve's package:
1980 Topps "The Bird"
1981 Topps
1982 Topps
1983 Explosion!
1985 Topps
1986 Topps
White Sox GM Ken Williams in 1989


And of course, my favorite from the set: Sweet Lou.
From Grand Cards

The only thing more egregious than Tram's paltry Hall of Fame support is the fact the Sweet Lou didn't even make it past the first ballot. Look at his numbers. Seriously, look it up. He is Hall Worthy, in my opinion as much or moreso that Alan Trammell.

Well, that's all for now, off to Work. Thanks to Brian and Steve for the great cards!

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Trading Philosophy

So it turns out that all this “blog” stuff can be useful for trading cards with other people. Who knew? In the interest of making life easier for prospective traders, I thought that I would post my Trading Philosophy and keep it available for easy reference.

I collect Detroit Tigers. I collect Curtis Granderson. If you have cards that fall into these categories, I will likely be interested. On occasion, I may also collect other cards. For example, Rookie Cards of Hall of Famers, 2007 and 2008 UD Masterpieces have also fallen under my collecting radar.

My philosophy is simple: I am willing to trade anything for cards that I need for my collections. I don’t care about the value of the cards. That said, I’m not going to make trades that are patently unfair, but I’m certainly not going to be splitting hairs.

My primary collections are this:

Topps Detroit Tigers—Base, Inserts, GU, Auto etc.
Curtis Granderson—All Brands/Cards

Secondary collections may include:
Upper Deck Detroit Tigers—Base Only
Hall of Fame RCs
Detroit Tigers in Topps Chrome, Heritage, Goudey, A&G, All Time Fan Favorites, Topps Retired
Zach Putnam—All Brands/Cards

Tertiary collections may include: Other Tigers Cards, other interesting cards

All of my Detroit Tigers wants are available (in checklist form) in the Wantlist in the sidebar. If you have a card that isn’t on the checklist, it means that I don’t know of its existence and likely need it. The wantlist is a spreadsheet. There are tabs on the bottom for different categories, and little arrows to make the tabs scroll. My Granderson wants are part of my Ultimate Checklist series, which is ongoing. If in doubt, ALL of my Granderson cards (except '08 M&M) can be seen in my Curtis Granderson Collection (also in the sidebar).

My tradelist is also in the sidebar. Every single card that I’ve acquired since 2007 is in that spreadsheet. Tabs across the bottom also help categorize things. Cards may be cross referenced into different categories. You can also organize these cards, the way you would a spreadsheet, by player, team, brand, card number etc. I constantly upgrade my Wantlist and my Tradelist to reflect the most accurate information available.

If you are interested in trading with me, just send me an email.

That’s it…Happy Trading!

Monday, January 26, 2009

The Value of Cards (Part IV)

I'm sorry for the slow posting around here, this little piece has been tormenting me for a few days. If you make it through this and follow me the whole way though, you will be rewarded! Also, today was a tremendous mail day for me, so there will be all sorts of pretty pictures in the days ahead.

For a refresher, Parts I, II and III

Having wrapped up the “true” value of cards from a market perspective last time, I thought that it would be interesting to view the other side of the coin. I hypothesized that manufacturers actually have an implicit Suggested Retail Price (SRP) for cards in a pack that can be derived through a study of pack prices and printed odds. The odds come courtesy of 25 Years of Baseball and we will perform this whole analysis using Topps Series 1. For 2008 Series 1, Topps produced 5,445,000 packs of cards. Based on what? The odds of a platinum parallel are 1:16,500 packs on average. There is one platinum parallel per player, 330 cards in the set. That is 5,445,000 packs to reach the 1:16,500 average. Let’s break it down further:

Gold Cards = 662,640 (pack odds say 605,000, but 330x2008 says otherwise)
Black Cards=18,810 (pack odds say 57,315, but 57*330…)
All Star Rookie 50th: 1,089,000 (55 Subjects-19,800 per player)
Own The Game: 907,500 (25 Subjects – 36,300 per player)
Year In Review: 907,500 (60 subjects – 15,125 per player)
Campaign 2008: 605,000 (12 subjets - 50,416 per person)
Mantle HR History: 605,000 (34 cards – 17,794 per card)
Trading Card History: 453,750 (25 subjects – 18,150 per card)
Mantle Story: 302,500 (10 cards – 30,250 per card)
Commemorative Patch Relics: 13,216 (35 subjects- 377 per card)
World Champion Auto Relics: 500 – 50 per player (odds say 377)
World Champion Relics: 1,136 (15 subjects – 75 per player)
Highlights Auto—Group A: 170 (5 subjects – 34 each)
Highlights Auto—Group B: 718 (15 subjects – 48 each)
Highlights Auto –Group C: 5,683 (15 subjects – 378 each)
Highlights Auto –Group E: 5065 (5 subjects—1013 each)
Highlights Auto—Group F: 6083 (8 subjects – 760 each)
Highlights Auto—Group G: 1773 (1 subject – 1773 each)
Highlights Relic –Group A: 1513 (3 subjects –504 each)
Highlights Relic –Group B: 256 (1 subject—256 each)
Highlights Relic –Group C: 3156 (3 subjects – 1052 each)
Highlights Relic –Group D: 2770 (14 subjects –197 each)
Presidential Stamp Collection: 2792 (30 subjects – 93 each)

Add all of those cards up and you get 5,596,531 cards. Let’s round that up to 5,597,000 to account for some of the other 1/1 cards, printing plates etc. Assuming 10 cards per pack, that leaves us with 48,853,000 Base cards or, approximately 148,000 per player in the set.

Does this check out? By this math, a Gold card would be 73 times more rare than it’s corresponding base card. Well, considering you get 1 base card in every 9 packs (or 1/90 cards is Gold) then I would say that we’re at least in the ballpark! This is useful because it allows us to create a cohesive set of relative prices for base cards and inserts. For all non-relic and non-autographed cards, the only thing that makes one card more valuable than another card is scarcity. With that, we can create this conversion table:

Base Card=1/7 ASR50=1/4 OTG=1/9 YIR=1/3 Campaign=1/8 MMHR=1/8 TCH=1/5 MMS=1/73 Gold=1/2596 Black

These are the cards that have no intrinsic value—e.g. there is no jersey or autograph that actually affects the cost/value of the card. Let’s say our baseline pack (retail pack) features 12 base cards for $1.99. That, in essence, creates an SRP of a base card of $.166. Now, with our conversion chart, we can extrapolate that to SRPs of other cards!

ASR50=$1.16
OTG=$.664
YIR=$1.49
Campaign= $.49
MMHR=$1.32
TCH=$1.33
MMS=$.83
Gold= $12.16
Black= $430.9


Clearly, our equation starts to fail at the extremes. However, it actually does a surprisingly decent job of estimating the market prices of base and insert cards. I would say that many of us, especially those that need it for a specific collection, would be willing to pay the “SRP” prices for these cards. So, for “regular” cards, the manufacturer’s “SRP” and the market price seem to match pretty well.

Can that same logic convert to “the hits?” Autograph and Relic cards create an actual cost for the manufacturer, and you would expect that cost to be reflected through higher “SRP” prices and higher market prices. Let’s use our ol’ friend Albert, who started this whole ruckus a few weeks ago. Based on what The Sportscard File has told us, you would expect the SRP for a Pujols autograph to be at least $250—the $200 cost plus a 25% profit margin (this ignores production costs). Let’s see if our data can help here.

Pujols happens to have a Group A autograph in Series 1, and we find, via pack odds that there are 34 Pujols Autographed cards in this set. We have already established that our simple relationship fails in extremes, and that holds true here. The Pujols card would have an SRP of $4,376.47—clearly an absurd figure. So what else can we do?

Let’s go back to the basics. There are three types of packs that exist: Retail, Hobby and HTA Jumbo. Let’s assume that the only difference between these is the number of cards in a pack and the relative likelihood of receiving a Relic or Autographed card. The SRP of a Hobby Box is $70 and features 36 packs with 10 cards per pack. SRP of a Retail Box is also $70 but has 12 cards per pack. The SRP of an HTA box is $100 and has 10 packs with 46 cards each. Just dividing SRP by number of cards we get:

Retail: 16 cents per card
Hobby: 19 cents per card
HTA: 22 cents per card

A retail box has 72 more cards than a Hobby Box—or the equivalent of 6 packs ($12) worth. To make up for that difference, the Box provides $12 of additional value, on average, through a relic OR an auto. To get the 460 cards that come in an HTA box via Retail would cost only $73.60, a difference of $26.40. Accordingly, the HTA provides the additional value of a relic AND an auto.

What does this mean? The guaranteed Relic or Auto in a Hobby Box has an average value of $12. The guaranteed Relic AND Auto in an HTA box has an average value of $26.40. Using these numbers, and the group odds, we can at least figure out the value of a card from a particular group.

Lets assume that the values of cards within a Group are constant and that relative values are proportional to the card’s scarcity. I realize that this may be a stretch, but it’s all we’ve got for now. In this case, a Group A autograph is the scarcest, and most valuable. With 34 cards per subject it is worth 1.41 times more than a Group B card, of which there are 48 cards per subject. Using that logic, we can make another relative value equation for Autos:

A=1.41B=11.11C=29.79E=22.35F=34.5G

I do not know why there is no Group D breakout in the odds that I found online, so we’ll have to deal with what we’ve got.
Similarly, for Relics, where Group D is the scarcest at 197 cards per subject:
D=5.34C=1.3B=2.56A

There are 19,492 autograph cards and 20,911 relic cards (using only Highlights Autos/Relics and Commorative Patch relics for simplification). In other words, there is one relic card for every 1.07 autograph cards. Earlier, we calculated that there are 5,445,000 packs. In a Hobby Box 1/36 packs has either a relic or an auto. That means that 151,250 packs have either a relic or an auto.

Total=r+a
r=1.07a OR a=.935r
151,250=r+.935r=1.935r
r=78,165
a=.935r=73,084

Knowing how many relics and autos there are tell us that there is a 51.68% chance that the “hit” is a relic and a 48.32% chance that it is an auto. Almost there…

The Expected “Value” of our Auto is .4832*12= or $5.80 Let’s use the median instead of the mean to determine that the median card falls in Group F. If F=$5.80 and A=22.35F, then A=$129.63

Clearly, this is well below the $200 that Albert charges for an Autograph. There could be two reasons. The first, is that I don’t know what I’m doing mathematically and that I even ended up with the proper number of figures is a miracle in and of itself. That is the most likely probability. The other reason is that Topps is using Pujols to sell the product (he is on the box after all) and is willing to take a loss on the box to entice people to buy. This is what The Sportscard File has called a “loss leader.” It is a card that entices people to buy the product, but actually costs the manufacturer more money to produce than they expect to get back off that card.

You see, markets rarely lie. They tend to incorporate all of the available information to determine prices. Would you be surprised to see a 2008 Topps Pujols Autograph sell on eBay for $129.63? How about a Pujols Autograph #/34 for that amount? That sounds pretty darn accurate to me.

My point is, Topps has implicitly set an SRP of around $130 for this card, even though it costs them more to produce it. They make up for it by also inserting cards that have low SRPs (Group C is SRP’d at $4.35—sounds about right for the Lance Broadway auto I pulled from my box), and making the difference back as profit. Interestingly, the relic in the box has an Expected Value of $6.20. This may be due to the fact that the relic cards are almost all stars or semi-stars, whereas the autos can be quite obscure.

I’m not mathematically proficient enough to continue this to figure out how things change by guaranteeing both in the HTA box. I know that r+a=$26, but I kind of fall apart there. Feel free to take this and run with it.
Again, I could be wrong on all of this and I would love it if somebody could correct me or help on any of it, but it makes sense to me intuitively. Next time, IN MY FINAL INSTALLMENT, I’ll talk about how we can use this information for good instead of evil and finally explain how we, as bloggers, can save the world.

Thanks for making it through.

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Ultimate Checklist: 2008 Topps Moments & Milestones

For a set that everybody loves to hate, I have a dicey love/hate relationship with 2008 Topps Moments & Milestones. I don't know how it happened, but somehow I got a small lot of Granderson cards from this set for next to nothing (like 99 cents, or something like that). I thought, simultaneously, in a true feat of quantum mental bandwidth, "these cards are cool/these cards are stupid." First, the technicals: The "base" cards are all numbered to 150. There are parallels that are numbered to 25 (black), 10 (blue) and 1 (red).

Fine, that all seems pretty straightforward. So what's the problem? Why the love and hate? First, the love:
From Curtis Granderson Collection
From Curtis Granderson Collection
From Curtis Granderson Collection
From Curtis Granderson Collection

These cards are nice. I'm sorry. Look at them! There are four cards, four different pictures, design variations, nice color schemes--they're even printed on an excellent card stock. Its not too thin, its not too thick. I am a fan. Curtis Granderson's cards, numbers 38, 39, 40 and 41 are worth collecting.

Unfortunately, Card number 38 has a few variations. 38-1, 38-2, 38-3 etc. up to 23 for each home run. Card 39 has 26 variations, one for each steal. 40 has 23 variations for each triple and there are 38 versions of #41 for each double. So, Curtis Granderson has 4 unique cards that are great. Or, Curtis Granderson has 110 cards that are repetitive and mediocre.

That is the hate component of this set, and it is what everybody hates about this set. There is no reason to have 110 different cards that only have 4 different designs. There is really no reason to have 110 more that are numbered to 25, 110 more numbered to 10 and 110 more "1 of 1" cards. These are not one of ones. These are a joke. Moments & Milestones are a prime example of artificial scarcity and corporate greed that has frustrated collectors all year.

Still, for all the criticism that I have about this set, I must confess a sickness. I have an issue, which you will become familiar with over time, if you're not already, in which I must complete any collections that I start. The corollary of this is that I don't start collections that I'm not prepared to finish, which is why I don't collect the Black, Blue and Red versions of this set. However, I am stuck trying to complete the frustrating, annoying but addictively beautful "base" set of Topps Moments & Milestones.

With that, I need your help. I need the following cards (#/150) to finish my set (Updated 2/15/2011):
Home Runs (Card #38): 15
Stolen Bases (Card #39): 10, 19, 25, 26
Triples (Card #40): 4, 10, 11, 13, 18
Doubles (Card #41): 23, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37

I beg you. Let me put this sickness to rest.

Monday, January 19, 2009

Blog Bat Around #3: If you don't care, I don't care

The topic for this Blog Bat Around, organized by Dave at Fielder’s Choice:

2008 is over and 2009 has just begun. We’ve seen the previews for the first card releases of the new year. We also know that Upper Deck is planning to eliminate a few brands in 2009, and with the economy in a recession, Topps and other card companies may follow suit. As collectors, we want to see the card companies make cards that we want to collect, but how do they know what we want? This is your chance to tell them…

What type of sets would you like to see produced in 2009 and beyond? What sets from 2008 and past years do you want to see return, and which brands would you like to see killed off? How could existing brands be improved and what new types of card sets would you like to see created? Should new sets be geared more toward set collectors, or should the number of hits (autographs and game-used relics) be increased? What about short prints? Parallels? Inserts? Gimmicks? What do you love about current cards, what do you hate, and where should the card companies go from here?


My response:

As many of you know, I am a newcomer to this blogging community. My history and relationship with card collecting features a big black hole between about 1994 and 2006. As such, I don’t feel experienced enough to be able to provide deep insight on the state of the hobby or its future. Still, I am happy to offer an opinion. Perhaps it is an opinion that many of the people who have been out of collecting—or have never collected—hold and maybe it isn’t.

For me, collecting is a complement to my true love—baseball. I view it as a way to track the history of the game and, more importantly, for me to recall various milestones and memories from different points of my life. Collecting was a way to connect with my favorite players growing up as well as a way to take pride and ownership over something that I had built from scratch. I believe, at its core, that all collectors share this feeling in some way. Amidst the “hits” and the 1 of 1s and all of the things that didn’t exist when I was younger there need to be cards that people can identify with and enjoy for what they are.
The way I see it, the entire hobby can be simplified into four groups: Full Set Collectors, Team Collectors, Player Collectors and those who just enjoy interesting cards and/or cards of good players. While no two collectors are the same, I think that grouping into these categories is appropriate. Manufacturers need to recognize these divisions and not try to make a “one-size-fits-all” product. Lets take Topps or Upper Deck’s main sets for example. In general, those who build full or team sets start with these releases. They should feature base cards with a good checklist, nice photography and should be challenging, but achievable to collect. The worst thing that a company can do is make a set-collectors product too difficult or too expensive to collect. Higher end products that heavily feature game used, autographs and parallels are fine, as long as they are recognized for what they are—sets for player collectors and those who just want high quality and unique cards.

The problem is that even the high-end market has been dumbed down to a degree, and has been cannibalized by the massive inclusion of GU/Autos, Short Prints and Parallels in lower end sets. Set collectors don’t care about those things, but some collectors do. By relegating the “expensive” cards to “expensive” packs you are able to keep the market for those cards fresh and keep the set collectors happy.

Still, I don’t buy high-end packs because they’re too expensive so I’ll end my talk about them there before I end up with my foot in my mouth.

Whether there are too many releases in the market or not enough, I’m not one to say—that’s for market research to determine (although there sure seem to be a lot out there). However, there is one thing that I am confident in. The success of a set comes down to its design. According to most of the blogs out there, Topps Allen & Ginter is almost universally beloved. How can this be? It includes non-baseball cards in a baseball set, it has short prints, a bunch of parallels and more. If A&G were designed to look like UDX people would piss and moan about the short prints, and the flags and buildings and parallels etc. I guarantee that would happen—look at the “uproar” surrounding the fossils that Upper Deck has in hand for a new release! People are calling for a dinosaur-only set! Is that really different than getting Leo Tolstoy or whoever in an A&G pack? No. But the design is amazing and the set is well done.

I guess what I’m saying is that the sets that buyers don’t think twice about are the same sets that the manufacturers didn’t think twice about during the design process. People like the concept, but not the execution of UD Documentary, for example. It's not that the product is bad, it’s just that it was done poorly—if done correctly it could have had a neat niche. Look at UDX, CoSigners and Moments & Milestones, for example. They’re kind of lame. There fine for a single here and there, but in all, they just don’t look that nice, or get repetitive etc.

Isn’t that the whole point? Why are we card collectors instead of coin collectors or stamp collectors or hoarders of old newspapers or bottle caps or coasters, beer glasses etc. (I realize that some of us are—not the point). We collect baseball cards because baseball cards have feeling. They are portraits of our time, capturing a moment of a player’s career or a team’s ascendancy to greatness. It needs to return to that. The cards themselves need to be held to a higher standard. If the design lacks feeling or quality design the set will fail. I dare you to provide me with a counterexample.

So those are my overall feelings for the future. A few bullets on specific grievances:

  • Stop using the same picture on multiple cards in a set. I’m talking to you Generation Now, UD Documentary and Moments & Milestones. These are not different cards and they are not parallels. Stop it.)
  • Topps Gold is good. It is a nice variation on the base set that is seeded in such a way that doesn’t hamper normal set collecting.
  • Topps Gold Foil is bad. It is indistinguishable, unnecessary and makes it more difficult and frustrating to build a set.
  • I like inserts, especially when they can be built into their own subsets (Topps World Baseball Classic, e.g.). I DO NOT LIKE continuity inserts that commemorate an extraordinarily long list of achievements, such as career home runs. Those cards become unremarkable after a few packs. If you continue with them, at least use a picture specific to the “moment” on the card.
  • Parallels and Short Prints are a player/team collectors challenge. Keep them within reason (ahem, Co-signers and Heroes) and you’re fine. Go crazy (e.g. SPs in UD Masterpieces) and you frustrate the set collectors and depress sales.
  • The market is saturated with Autographs and Game Used cards. They need to be harder to pull (turn Hobby packs into Retail-seeded packs for some sets) and pack prices on some products should go down. If people want Autos and Game Used they can go to the higher end.
  • The 55-card team-specific gift set from Topps was wonderful. Those should rotate so that each team has one every three or four years.

As a penultimate point, I have a suggestion that may or may not gain any traction. Many people point to the success of card games that offer Starter Packs and Booster sets, and relatively high price points. As someone who played Magic “The Gathering” in Middle School, that provides a very interesting model. How about this: Starter Pack of 60 cards for a $10 (this is the $10 blaster, 5 packs or 12 card each, SRP $1.99 per pack). Starter Packs are seeded in such a way that they are primarily base cards,with lower than normal insertion rates for inserts and parallels. Booster Packs of 10 cards can be sold for $4. While some base cards will be there, they may be drawn from a higher caliber of player. More importantly, parallels and inserts can more easily be had via booster pack. I’m not exactly sure of the implications, but I feel like that would cut the fat for set collectors, restore the “special” feeling of inserts and parallels and keep people buying more packs (especially the higher priced booster packs) to get the rare cards or marquee players, instead of buying regular packs only to pull 5 cards of Dan Haren (right Thorzul?)

Finally and most importantly, the market needs transparency. Checklists need to be readily available for all products online and in boxes. They need to be accurate and complete. The Retail-only releases from recent years are fine, but need to be recognized and accounted for. “Secret” short prints (Gimmicks) need to be stopped altogether. The frustrating part of this hobby is seeing cards sold on eBay that are outrageously priced because there is not adequate information out there. The sad part of this hobby is seeing somebody pay a high price, only to see the price fall over time. The companies need to make it easier for collectors to collect. That is all we ask. Let us know what cards are out there, tell us what we should expect to get out of a pack (odds) and we will be on our way.

If you made it through this, congratulations.

Sunday, January 18, 2009

The Value of Cards (Part III)

I lied. This post went up today and not yesterday. My apologies.

Part III: When Prices Rise Over Time

Parts I and II are available here and here

When information is scarce and prices haven’t stabilized, it is most common for prices to decline, as discussed extensively in Part II. In the majority of cases, waiting will yield lower prices, unless a stable “market price” has already been set, in which case prices will stay the same. It is important to note that this effect does not necessarily hold true for all cards. Rather, only cards that are capable of commanding high prices will follow this logic. In low price ranges, the psychological barrier of spending an extra dollar or two is not large enough to prevent people from spending a little more than their perceived value just to win. With high prices, some people will try to get the card cheaply, some will spend moderately and some will eventually spend a lot to win the card. Ultimately, the price will settle at a more moderate range where the bulk of collectors would value it. This stabilization point is the point where the two lines on our graph cross, known as the equilibrium (labeled true market value).  Here's our graph from the previous post to illustrate:
From Grand Cards

However, there is another scenario that can arise in which waiting will lead to substantially higher costs. I will call this the Andrew Miller Paradox. In 2007, Topps released rookie variations for a handful of cards in their Series 1 set. Andrew Miller, Delmon Young and Troy Tulowitzki, among others. The Andrew Miller card showed him posed, instead of delivering a pitch like his normal card. It became known as #15b. Here are the two side by side with the variation on the right.
Now, this card came out right when I got back into collecting. I saw it on eBay when Topps series 1 was released and the two cards, bundled together sold for around $10. A month or so later, I saw another one on eBay with a starting price of around $40. Later there was another one at about $40 with a few days to go. Other sightings from members of the Detroit Sports Collectors forum saw prices get as high as $75 and $175! So what happened here?

Well, asymmetric information reared its ugly head again. When this card was first released, people knew that it was short printed, but they didn’t know how short. Prices were inflated above normal card value. However, it quickly became known that these prices were SUPER short printed. The forums came alive with rumors of 1:3400 Wal Mart Packs, Less than 1 per case, etc. All of a sudden this card, which people had apprehensively bid on initially, was known to be extremely rare. With all the information out in the open, the price exploded. Topps set collectors, perhaps the largest subset of collectors, clamored to get it, leaving Tigers and Miller collectors in the dust, although still willing to pony up for the card. In this case, the price may have stabilized at a persistently high level, or it may have been high up until the point that these rare cards disappeared from the market. Either way, the price of this card never did go down and remains an impossible card to find to this day. Graphically the series of events looks like this:
From Grand Cards

In the first graph we see a “true market value” based on the information available to consumers. However, once more information is revealed, and the scarcity of the card known, the graph changes. The upward sloping graph (supply curve) shifts to the left, reflecting a lower supply than originally thought. This creates a new “true market value” at a much higher level, given the fewer number of cards in the market.

Contrast the Miller case with a more famous short print from the same release, the Derek Jeter w/Bush and Mantle card. With collectors still jittery over the Alex Gordon and Alay Soler releases in 2006 Topps (Beckett wrote a good article that provided much needed information on the scarcity of the card—clearly with intelligent economists on staff), and with the Jeter card receiving tremendous publicity, prices started out sky-high. However, as the scarcity of the card became better known, prices fell—as you would expect in a traditional scenario. Graphically:
From Grand Cards

In this scenario, consumers thought that the card had a lower supply than it actually did. As you may remember, the market was initially confused about whether this was a gimmick or a joke that wasn’t caught. This confusion bred high initial prices. Once it became clear that it was a gimmick, and that the card was more common than originally thought, the supply curve shifted to the right, lowering the price. (You could also argue that demand shifted left, lowering prices further, once the card was revealed as a gimmick, turning some people off. It is important to note that while actual suppy didn’t change, the perceived supply in the market, based on the information available did change, causing the price fluctuation. While this isn’t technically asymmetric information, which assumes that either buyers or sellers exploit the other by having information that only they know, this general disinformation has the same effect for our purposes).

So how do the cases of price inflation discussed here and deflation, from the previous post, help us determine a final market price? The key is information. Looking back at the original post from Dinged Corners, we see the Babe Ruth “hair” card. The seller has no idea how much that card is worth. Neither do you. Nobody does. Why? Because only one of those cards exists, and there are no comparable substitutes out there. This is not a printing plate “1 of 1” where there are other printing plates from the same player and other players that can help set a market price (for printing plates), this has a hair from Babe freaking Ruth. Now, if this were just an autograph card, we could set a price on it based on the going rate for Babe Ruth signature cards or, failing that, Babe Ruth signatures on other items. The issue is the hair. Perhaps if cloning were up and running then someone could evaluate how much a modern day Babe Ruth would earn as a professional baseball player, subtract the cost of the cloning procedure and the cost of raising him over the course of 18 years until he could get drafted out of high school and reach a final number for having Babe Ruth as a son. Otherwise, what is the point of the hair? Because it’s cool? Last I checked, you can’t put a price on cool (I should know—Heyo!) So, instead we are left with a card that is so potentially valuable that it has no value because it can’t sell. The only way to find the price of that card is to put it up for auction and see where it ends up. Meanwhile, Jeter and Matsuzaka cards are selling within narrow-ish ranges, although some buyers are getting better prices than others. Clearly, there is an established market for these players that has helped set a base price for their autographed cards, allowing for fluctuations based on set, condition, autograph quality etc. Price stabilization occurs when all of the information about the card is known. It doesn’t need to be perfect (e.g. the card can be relatively common or relatively rare) but there needs to be some heuristic that buyers can follow. If there isn’t, we get crazy Armando Galarraga and Andrew Milller situations until more information is discovered.

So that, my friends, is how the eBay market works to price cards. I hope that made sense for everyone. But wouldn’t it be interesting to know what the companies thought the cards would be worth? Wouldn’t it be easier if there was an SRP for cards like this, especially the really rare ones?

I hypothesize that there actually is. Through a combination of pack prices and the odds released by manufacturers, we can actually deduce the manufacturer’s SRP for almost EVERY CARD in a release! In the next post, I will attempt to prove that hypothesis and use it in conjunction with our newfound knowledge of the dynamics of eBay to determine how we can purchase on eBay more effectively and, how we, as bloggers, can save the world.

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

The Value of Cards (Part II)

Part II: Why Prices Go Down Over Time

My first post, available here was intended to introduce the concept of Consumer Surplus and to drive home the point that every collector values individual cards/products differently. I know that this conclusion seems obvious. Bear with me, as it is the crux of the entire secondary card market that is primarily driven through eBay.

Unlike a traditional market, in which a producer like Topps or Upper Deck tells us how much a pack of cards is worth through Suggested Retail Prices, eBay is a market based on Auctions in which, by definition, the highest bidder wins. This can lead to a number of peculiar results, which is, in fact, what led me to begin on this series in the first place.

At its core, the “value” of a particular card can adjust in accordance with two mechanisms, ultimately resulting in Price Stabilization. This stable price represents the true market value of the card, or, how much the card is actually worth. It is worth noting, that the value of cards can change over time. This was as true in a pre-eBay era as it is now and can be related to the desirability of a particular player, or set or the addition of information regarding the card’s scarcity etc. eBay has simply helped make this process simpler, by providing real-time price feedback and card information that was previously unknown to the collector.

Two mechanisms eventually lead to price stabilization on eBay, and they should be familiar to all of us. Deflation (declining price) and Inflation (ascending price). I will tackle them separately in the next two posts.

Deflation: The Curious Case of Armando Galarraga
In 2008, Topps guaranteed a game used card in each Series 2 and U&H $20 blaster from Target. Although odds of pulling a particular card were available on the side of the box, this information was not available to anyone who didn’t purchase a blaster themselves. One of these cards was a relic card of Detroit Tigers rookie Armando Galarraga. There are a series of groups of people who would potentially be the “end user” for this card (ie: want this card for their collection): Detroit Tigers Collectors (esp. Topps Tigers collectors), Armando Galarraga Collectors, Topps Master Set collectors, Game Used collectors and Rookie Collectors, for example.

We can roughly order which groups would desire the card the most: Galarraga collectors and Tigers collectors would be on top, followed by Master set, GU and RC collectors. The logic is that there are few substitutes for Topps Tigers and Galarraga collectors, whereas the Master set collector has other cards from the same set to chase and the GU and Rookie Collectors have other cards from other sets to chase.

By this logic, we can make a simplifying assumption that Tigers/Galarraga collectors would pay the most for this card, followed by the other groups, respectively. Let’s take a look at a modification on yesterday’s graph:Just like yesterday’s graphic, buyers on the left of the curve value the card more highly than buyers further to the right. If sold at the True Market Value (equilibrium point) they would be rewarded with a large consumer surplus (feel like they got a good deal). In this case, the “price” of the card is unknown without an SRP. Since nobody tells us how much a card is worth, it is up to us to figure it out!

Clearly, each collector’s individual valuation of a card will go a long way towards determining a final market price. If only it were that simple. As much as we decry the abundance of serial numbered cards as a way to create artificial scarcity and increase prices (it is, and it does) it removes one major barrier from achieving an efficient outcome: Information Asymmetry.
I know that a card #/99 only has 99 copies. You know that too. So does everyone that sees the card or views the listing. What I don’t know, is how common an unnumbered card is when it appears on eBay (notice, that “p” is not the only unknown in the above graphic, “q” is too!). I claim that this Information Asymmetry is THE SOURCE of almost all price fluctuations that we see on eBay prior to achieving price stabilization. As humans, we need information and context to help us make decisions. When there is none the outcome is very erratic indeed. And that brings us back to Armando…

For weeks after its existence was discovered, people like me and the folks over at the Detroit Sports Collectors Forum scoured eBay for this Armando Galarraga relic card. Even after returning from card shows, no Armando could be found. Finally, one appeared on eBay. After a furious last hour it sold for $21—that’s right, the guaranteed card from a $20 blaster. In the next few weeks, two more appeared and sold for $21-23. The buyer of the third gave this justification:
I "won" the other auction today for $21 and change. Way more than I wanted to spend on this card but it's better than a wild gamble on a $20 blaster box and ending up with a bunch of common doubles that I don't need.

This new auction may be "yet another", but that's still a grand total of only 4 of these cards (3 white border, 1 gold [sold for $9.99-ed.]) that I've ever seen, leading me to believe it's a very short print. Perhaps just trying to make myself feel better about spending $21 but at least it's one step closer to closing out 2008

A month later, two more of these cards have ended up on eBay. The 4th sold for $13. The 5th sold for about $8. So what happened here? In a case of textbook economics, the people who valued the cards the most won the first copies, albeit at a relatively high cost. It is no coincidence that at least two of them were members of the Detroit Sports Collectors, a group that we judged would value the cards the most. After those initial cards were gone, people with more moderate valuations started winning, resulting in major price reductions. The last card yielded the first sensical result. By selling at $8, the card was now cheaper than a Gold Parallel version of the card #/99. While the price may not have stabilized yet (a search of "retail relics" on eBay as of 1/14/09 shows four cards priced at or below $0.99 and buy it now prices ranging from $2-5) we can clearly see how information asymmetry exploited the individual values of collectors who valued that card highly for their collection. Although they were left with little or no consumer surplus, they did win the card and walked away happy.

That is what eBay is designed to do. As an auction format, it is designed to make you bid up to your maximum value for a card. It is no coincidence that eBay actually instructs you to do this. If everyone bid their maximum value for a card, then the person who values the card the most would get it. That is an efficient outcome, although that is not always what happens. In a scenario like the one we just discussed, this can lead to high prices at first, which gradually lower and stabilize—something that we all have had experience with.

Since this is already very long, I will stop there. In subsequent posts, I will discuss a situation in which the price of a card will get more expensive the longer you wait and (finally) how we can determine what a card is actually “worth.” I will also explore ways to exploit the system, how knowing all of this can help you make important purchasing decisions (of packs too!) and how we, as bloggers, can help save the world.

Note: I still need this card for my collection, so if anybody has it let me know!